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Fellow Hummer fans, do not fall for the 32 AMP model unless your house does not have the capacity for 40 Amp, the Hummer is a thirsty beast, and 25% faster charging will be beneficial sometime in your future ownership. I strongly recommend buying a 48 Amp capable unit that is hardwired.
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I would not buy the 40A charger at this time either. Once again not unless you‘re limited to a 50 Amp circuit to install it on. I’m fully expecting the Hummer EV to accept an 80 Amp charger (100A circuit breaker at your panel) the same as what Ford is offering for the Lightning or the Tesla generation 1 and 2 wall chargers. Tesla is bringing back 80+ Amps for 4th gen to supply Cybertruck.
If you park the Hummer EV with only 5% battery remaining, that 32A charger would take 18~20 hours to charge you back up.
If you park the Hummer EV with only 5% battery remaining, that 32A charger would take 18~20 hours to charge you back up.
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Sure, if your home and utility connection has the 80 Amp 19.2 kW continuous capability that is also not a bad idea (if the Hummer can take that A/C charge rate which I have not heard GM announce, except for the Lyriq), Now though you are talking about a significant utility side load, which needs to be run by your electrician, but you also need to notify the local utility that you intend to draw that much power. Most homes in the USA have a 200 AMP service, however the local utility is not set up to feed you 200 AMPS continuous, so you can cause trouble for yourself, and your neighbors if you overload the system, and can lead to big $$ from the utility if you damage or they have to upgrade their system. Many early Tesla owners found this out the hard way, so much so Tesla stopped offering 80 Amp A/C capability.
Edit: I just went back and read the user agreement from our local utility, and they say notification of the local utility, and on-site survey is required for any new load over 5kW. If you do not let the utility know, you are out of compliance, and responsible for any up line damage you cause, which could be as simple as causing voltage drop, and damaging your neighbors electronics.
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All true, but also totally area dependent. Our service is 300A and no special notifications are required on our part. But any new circuit installation over a certain wire length, more than 30 Amps, more than 120V, etc.. requires a permit, installation by licensed electrician and inspection, which is also pretty common in most places. I have a first-gen Tesla charger on a 100A breaker and can charge up to 80A — my first model S had the dual-charger option so could take it. My current 2019 Model is is like all the other newer Teslas that charge up to 48A off AC sources. The SR Model 3 is limited to 32A. My Tesla charger is located about 5 feet from the panel, but it needed a permit and inspection to be installed.
My brother is near Denver and has a typical 200A service. He charges his Model X at 40A off a NEMA 14-50 (dryer plug) in his garage. He already had the outlet for running other equipment. It was way too costly to upgrade his service as he would need to pay to upgrade the transformer that serves him as well as a few neighbors and a new service line for his home. I think the power company quoted him over $10K.
This is going to be one of the biggest hurdles for electric trucks and larger vehicles that inherently have larger battery packs to charge. If I can’t plug my truck in at night with 10% or less and get to an adequate charge within 10 hours, it’s a no-go for me. Charging a 200KWh battery setup will be fine most of the time if I can feed it 60A or more as that should get me from 10% to 90% in about 12 hours. 80A would get me there in 9.5 hours. We know the F-150 lightning will charge at up to 80A and the larger battery option seems like it’s between 150 and 175 KWh. It’s not that I will need a big charge on a daily basis, but there are a couple times each month where I will.
My brother is near Denver and has a typical 200A service. He charges his Model X at 40A off a NEMA 14-50 (dryer plug) in his garage. He already had the outlet for running other equipment. It was way too costly to upgrade his service as he would need to pay to upgrade the transformer that serves him as well as a few neighbors and a new service line for his home. I think the power company quoted him over $10K.
This is going to be one of the biggest hurdles for electric trucks and larger vehicles that inherently have larger battery packs to charge. If I can’t plug my truck in at night with 10% or less and get to an adequate charge within 10 hours, it’s a no-go for me. Charging a 200KWh battery setup will be fine most of the time if I can feed it 60A or more as that should get me from 10% to 90% in about 12 hours. 80A would get me there in 9.5 hours. We know the F-150 lightning will charge at up to 80A and the larger battery option seems like it’s between 150 and 175 KWh. It’s not that I will need a big charge on a daily basis, but there are a couple times each month where I will.
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300 is an odd size electrical service, are you sure its not 320 Amp? Typically 125 Amp, 200 Amp, 320 Amp, and 400 Amp are typical residential services (once in a while a 600-800-or 1000 Amp service on very large homes) , although I have some friends in CA that have 100 Amp main service (wimpy).
Ya, I am a land developer, so I am all up on the codes for residential, and also how the infrastructure is designed and built. Its annoying as heck that you pay an amp fee when you connect a new service, but that does not necessarily mean the utility designs for that number of Amps, the utility company usually designs for the loads you declare (with a small safety factor), which is the reason when I do residential plats, I always tell them every house will have A/C and EV charger even if we don't plan to install them standard.
As for Charging, 40 or 48 amps is going to be plenty for most people, even with the Hummer EV, because even if you drive 300 miles and come home near empty, they likelihood even if you do not get completely refilled overnight you will not be taking another 300 mile trip the next day. Also if you were taking 2 road trips on back to back days, just hitting a D/C charger fixes the problem for that extreme corner case. The oddball is going to be the guy who tows daily, for that guy, I say buy a diesel, and wait for the next gen battery tech.
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Oh, I learn so much on this forum.... Please help keep us not in the know (no experience with EV's) up to date.... Another reason that I am glad I don't have an Edition 1 reservation, but I am going to wait for the EV3X.... Then I will have more time to plan and see what everyone's real world experience is before I pull the trigger..
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We have to keep learning every day as the world changes. I think you are smart to wait for the 2nd round and see how things go with the early adopters. Those of us that will close on our Edition 1's are taking a bit of a gamble, I have decided I will keep my diesel pickup just in case, for towing, although the dealer offered me $72K trade in for it, which is about what I paid for it new 15 months ago.
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(taking this thread back closer to the original post) The other thing is that it will give me more time to figure out the home charging... Our electrical panel is pretty much full and maxed out, so the real world experience and charging times for different Amp rates will interest me... I do have a friend who is a semi-retired electrician who can help me figure out the electrical challenges so that is a good thing.
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Ya, charging is something I recommend people figure out early, especially now, with all the supply chain issues, the wall box manufacturers are having trouble getting parts out of Asia. My buddy supplies the cable and EVSE adaptor to several of the major wall box manufacturers, and he says they are having a heck of a time keeping up right now. Many of these companies have increased their orders 3X to 5X this year, but the manufacturing capacity has not grown as fast as the orders.
We are going to try to survive with 1 wall box for 3 EV's, with 2 EV's (the last year) we have not had any issue, and we are not adding drivers or miles driven, so it should still work out (I hope) I have a second Wall Box in my shop, but have not ever needed it.
If your electrical panel is full from a load standpoint, it will be more challenging to add car charging for you, but if you are just full on circuits that is less of a big deal, as you can easily install a small sub panel to get more circuit space. I think for most people 40 Amps is going to be enough to support the Hummer EV, if you are driving 100-150 miles a day of less on average. To put that in perspective 150 miles a day is over 50K miles a year, which few people drive. Most people drive less than 50 miles a day on average.
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OK guys, I threw together a little spreadsheet for the charging, now, I assumed the Hummer battery is 200 kWh useable, and assumed 550 wh/mi of consumption which might be a bit light. I did not add any correction factors, so I would assume these are "best case scenarios". As you can see you will want at least a 40 Amp home charger if you will be driving more than a little bit here and there, and the 48 Amp is better. I think the 80 Amp for home use is overkill, but if you are driving 200 miles or more a day regularly it would make things more convenient.
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Yep, we’re 320 Amp. Actually on a 400A main panel as that’s pretty standard. I just typed 300….
You’re right that most people will be fine with 40 or 48 Amp charge ability except for those who need to daily drive the truck 200 miles or will tow a lot. Anyone in that situation could be just fine if there’s a level 3 charger close by.
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